There's a new bike boom happening

Here is a link to a thread with much detail on the first build. Just got the foundation of this build done, the rectangle, the foundation of the rest of the build. Currently stripping a roadmaster frame to cut the rear triangle. This one will a disc, rear wheel. I may need to redo the drop outs to straight vertical ones, not sure how well a QR rear disc wheel will stay centered in the horizontal drop outs? I hate QR everything should be bolt on. Stupid QR dont have near the torque. http://www.politicalforum.com/index.php?threads/building-a-tandem-trike-for-the-handicapped.569193/

 

Or learn how to do adjustments yourself. If you ride alot it's good to know how. Save $ as well.

 

Back when I rode bicycles I used to disassemble and rebuild the entire machine, except for the pedals.

 

It takes a bit of learning and some stripped parts but it's pretty straight forward. Was going to build my first wheel from a bolt on , cassette hub I have and a nice DT Swiss rim. The hub is drilled for 36 spokes, I almost got the first run of trailing spokes done and something was not right...the rim is 32 spoke, lol. I'll give it another when I get my hands on a decent 36 rim.

 

I bought a Schwinn for about $140 in 2004. Great bike. I still have it. I also still have my 1974 Schwinn Varsity 10 speed, but it's not in great condition.

I'm 6'2" (189 cm) and I was 285 pounds (129 kilos). Since the virus, I've lost 20 pounds (9 kilos). I need to get down to my college weight of 210 (95 kilos).

 

I started on a Pacific from Target, the brake cables stretched immediately and bent the forks jumping some dirt jumps. The bike weighed over 40lbs because it was chinese steel (impregnated with lead) and was over all a general learning experience in adjustments and patience. The bad thing about Target and Walmart bikes is that they don't adhere to industry standards, at all. Can't replace stuff on a Huffy, just have to buy a new one.

 

I've got essentially this same bike, although these have hydraulic disk brakes as compared to my cable disk brakes. I paid IIRC either $500 or $550 about 5 years ago. I've put at least 3,000 miles on it (and mine is a single speed). Now you can get the new version w/20+ speeds (if you like that kind of thing)

It's $400 bucks, free shipping. Can't beat this quality/price combo.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/mountain_bikes/529ht_29er_mountainbikes.htm

With all this global warming, I figured this thread would be full of liberal experts.....surely they aren't hypocrites?

 

I'm a fan of the older, simpler components, like the suntour derailers and non indexed, old school thumb shifters (works with however many rear sprockets) but the aluminum lever ones, not the cheesy plastic, the mounting band is steel and I weld it to the frame. Here is the "roadmaster" rear triangle I just liberated from the frame, other than that, all the rest of the trike is new emt tube. They are cheap but strong and takes welds good. This one looks very new, a bit of surface rust but just sand and paint. I wont use one with too much rust.

 

Look at these cassettes, they are getting crazy but you only need one ring up front. The range is crazy.

https://www.nashbar.com/sram-nx-eagle-pg1230-12-speed-cassette-1150t-00.2418.086.000/p774479

 

Where do you ride? Ever hit any MTB parks?

 

Don't pop any wheelies it is from Wal Mart via China and they have it out for Americans..

 

Brooks suspended leather. It was sit bones murder to break it in, but once broken in it is great. It's on a low cost Jamis steel road bike.

Yeah, 28 width over 25 or 23. Much easier on old bones and sinews.

 

I'd love to ride around on one of those lightweight electric scooters. But my area has far too many nearly-blind elderly drivers and rednecks with their 5 foot lifted pickumup trucks. I'd probably end up run over taking to the streets in a tiny moped or scooty or something.

 

I rode a bike for 16 years in Tampa (knock on wood) never got hit. You must assume drivers will do the dumbest moves and always leave yourself an "out".

 

Nothing beats my big wheel

 

Maybe my tall bike I used to ride? Seat was nearly 6 ft off the ground. I could see semi drivers at eye level.

 

It's a commuter bike, it ain't made for that.

 

I am 5'7" and have gone down from 195 to 175 and have reached a plateau which kinda sucks.

 

Raleigh cadent II here, I ride 4-5 days a week minimum not including quick trips to the store. Best opportunity to bang out podcasts or nb just enjoy the peace & quiet of a solo ride. My area has plenty of dedicated bike paths and less traveled roads, marinas and parks to stop at as well.

I've never enjoyed riding on or near busy roads so I consider myself lucky to have the option to avoid them. Not really into any long distance riding, depending on blood and weather I might go 5 miles or 15 but rarely further unless I really get in a groove.

It helps keep the weight off and the cardio up.

I spent about $425 for this model then $75 for n accessories, it was a big improvement over my old mountian bike which was always a lot of effirt to ride which sucked the fun out of it so I rode less before the upgrade.

 

Have not ordered from them but it looks legit. Lots of parts from high to lower end. Most sites focus on higher end.

https://www.modernbike.com/bottom-bracket+page2+SortPriceAsc

 

Thinking about ordering this hub, bolt on freewheel disc hub, rare as hen's teeth. I have an oddball need. This will be the rear wheel on the next cargo trike. I want a rim brake and a disc on the rear wheel. (There will be two, independant brake levers) Not sure if quick release axle will hold tight in horizontal dropouts. I found a wheel with a disc hub and rim brake brake compatible rim, but only with quick release, naturally. Never built a wheel before but I'm sure I can. I have patience for tedious tasks. Or I can simply machine vertical drop outs from steel plate. Not sure yet. How do I determine proper spoke length to order?

 

Try this:

https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/

 

84% of Americans live in Urban areas. I don't think your the.majority anymore...

 

Take my 2c with a grain of salt and keep the change, admittedly I've never owned a higher end bike, $1,000-1500+ but I've taken a couple for short spins on them to test them out and I really cant see the need to spend that kind if money unless you are going to be putting in serious miles or need to keep up with a group.

I will admit the jump from$150 to $450 was noticeable, but beyond that the difference is minimal for just basic riding.

With that said. This summer/fall when this silly crisis is over, I'll be watching marketplace and CL for some deals when those that dropped a dime on a nice bike to learn 6 months later that they rode it 5 times and want to sell it half off.

My wifes bike is a basic model, so I'll be targeting her needs as well.

 

urban isnt the same as inner city